FARIBAULT, Minn. — For 10 years, former cheese plant co-workers Jeff Jirik, Joe Sherman and Randy Ochs' careers followed different paths, paths that took them all outside of the dairy industry at times. However, their divergent career paths were all instrumental in helping them recently reopen the blue cheese plant where they had once worked in Faribault, Minn. The name for the newly-founded company came easily for the three men who all grew up in the area — Faribault Dairy Co. Inc.

Jirik, Sherman and Ochs were all employees at Beatrice Cheese in Faribault, Minn., in 1991 when Beatrice decided to stop making cheese at the plant. Jirik, manager of the cheese plant, went on to become plant manager for a producer and packager of agglomerated dairy products and later the vice president of national operations for a transportation company. Sherman, who had been packaging supervisor at the Beatrice plant, went on to become a technical sales representative for a dairy and food industry chemical supplier before opening a computer consulting firm. And Ochs, a maintenance engineer for Beatrice, went on to become a maintenance supervisor for a pharmaceutical production and packaging company.

While it may seem they had strayed a bit from the cheese industry, Jirik says that all of these moves helped them become more well-rounded for what would be major career moves for them all 10 years later. In 2001, the three decided to go into business together and purchased the Faribault plant and nearby aging caves.

The idea of re-opening the cheese plant had been something Jirik had noodled on for the decade following the plant closure. Beatrice had sold the property, and the caves, dug into sandstone bluffs above the Straight River, weren't being utilized for what they do best: age cheese, Jirik says. Cheese production at the plant dated back to the 1930s, and before its closure and conversion into storage and light industrial use by the new owner, it was the second-oldest continually operating dairy plant in Minnesota. Reopening it seemed like the right thing to do.

For awhile it seemed like it might never happen. Jirik says that over the years he made inquiries into purchasing the plant, and one time came close to making a deal. However, none of his efforts came to fruition.

In the meantime, he was in touch with Ochs and Sherman, who suggested that the trio make a test vat of cheese "to make sure we remembered how," Jirik says.

That was in early 2001. The three put together a business plan and made some test vats. They also brought along Dr. Howard Morris, professor emeritus, University of Minnesota, to help them as a technical adviser.

They then approached the owner of the Faribault plant, even as they considered other options of starting a cheese company elsewhere.

This time, the Faribault plant owner was ready to sell, Jirik says, adding that it was a blessing since none of the other sites the trio had looked into were satisfactory for them.

Faribault Dairy Co. Inc. made its first cheese in its new facility Jan. 23, 2002, and began selling it this past spring. Already, the quality of the cheese has been recognized on the contest circuit, with a second place award coming out of the American Cheese Society's annual competition this summer and a gold award resulting from the 2002 World Cheese Awards in London this fall.

Jirik, who is president and CEO of Faribault Dairy, says the company's first mission has been to develop a presence for the company as a maker of handmade, artisanal blue cheese. The company's Amablu St. Pete's Select, named for the St. Peter sandstone caves that the cheese is aged in, is aged for 105-150 days and hand-inspected before each wheel is sold. The cheese officially debuted in June and has become popular in several restaurants already, Jirik says.

Jirik describes the cheese as a blue with a clean background that doesn't leave a strong aftertaste. It's creamy yet crumbly, with an attractive white firm body with prominent blue veining. He attributes the flavor to the quality of the milk the plant uses, the focus on cleanliness, the selection of the cultures and the cave aging. The cows' milk is filtered, heat-treated and then separated to ensure cleanliness, and the sandstone caves offer an ideal humidity and "natural cleansing" environment that removes undesirable ammonium compounds released by the cheese during aging. The company uses a special lime "whitewash" on the cave walls to enhance the cleansing effect of the sandstone.

"It's a unique cheese that lends itself to a number of dishes," Jirik says.

The cheese received its initial reviews from a group of students and chefs from the American Culinary Federation's Minneapolis Chapter who toured the facility in April and sampled the cheese, Jirik says. The group gave the cheese a standing ovation.

Jirik says the applause was gratifying. Sherman and Ochs — who respectively are executive vice president and vice president of engineering — and Jirik of course think the cheese is great. It's nice to know others, particularly professionals, agree, Jirik says.

"The three of us enjoy making great blue cheese. Our favorite part of this business is tasting a great piece of cheese and knowing we played a part in bringing it to being," he says.

While chefs are an important part of the business, Jirik anticipates that retail — both upscale and mainstream — will be the key component of the company's future growth. The company started its distribution with retailers in Minnesota, with distributor Classic Provisions, Golden Valley, Minn., helping the company get its foot in the door. Lunds & Byerly's, a chain of specialty grocery stores in Minnesota, was the first retailer to carry St. Pete's Select. This past summer, Faribault Dairy also began working with Northeast distributor Anco Fine Cheese, Fairfield, N.J. More recently, Great Cheese Co., Baltimore, and U.S. Foodservice, Plymouth, Minn., began distributing the company's products as well.

The company doesn't do all of its marketing through distributors. Faribault Dairy helps spread the word about its cheese through in-store sampling, according to Jirik, who says that he and other members of management conduct those samplings. They also attend a number of trade shows.

The trio recently made it through their first Christmas producing cheese as well and kept busy with an increasing number of orders. In recent months, the company has begun selling cheese on its new website, www.amablu.com, as well as its small retail store at the factory.

In the midst of the holiday hubbub, the company also introduced its new retail brand, Amablu. The name was chosen because the company wants to develop an "American" blue — one that's known for its American heritage and meets the demands of the American palate, Jirik says. The cheese is aged for a minimum of 75 days and comes in 5-ounce crumbles, 12-ounce crumbles, 4 1/2-ounce wedges and 5-pound crumbles for foodservice.

"The three of us knew what we were after," Jirik says of the product development. Faribault Dairy didn't want to imitate Roquefort or another company or country's blue cheese. Amablu is not aged as long as St. Pete's Select but has a similar flavor profile, he says.

Next month, Faribault Dairy also will roll out AmaGorg, a sweeter cheese with a buttery flavor. The cheese is aged 100 days and will be available in 5-ounce pouches and 4 1/2-ounce wedges.

Jirik, Sherman and Ochs have aggressive goals for the company. In five years, they would like Amablu to be an established national brand with a 25 percent share of the retail market. When the three bought the 23,000-square-foot plant, they made several improvements and have the ability to grow to about 4 million pounds of cheese annually in five years.

However, the company won't skimp on its quality, Jirik says. As production grows from its current 5,000 pounds of cheese per week, the company will continue to focus on maintaining its artisanal production practices and reputation for premium cheese.

CMN